Method for assessing hair conditions and diagnostic system for prescription of customized cosmetic treatment and/or product

ABSTRACT

It describes a method for assessing hair conditions, conceived to prescribe a customized cosmetic treatment and/or product, comprising the following steps: A) obtaining information about the hair of at least one user by means of at least one questionnaire with at least one question that combines parameters of tactile perception of hair with at least three attributes, defined by softness, combing and coarseness; B) inserting the information obtained in step A in a matrix for classification of hair damages, in order to obtain at least one classification about the hair conditions of the user; C) associating the classification about the hair condition of the user obtained in step B with the characteristics of at least one cosmetic product stored in a database that stores registrations of at least one cosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result about the customized cosmetic treatment and/or product; and D) prescribing to the user at least one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product according to the result obtained in step C. It is also describes a system for diagnosing the hair conditions by using at least one matrix for classification of hair damages and one database.

The present invention refers to a method for assessing hair conditionsand a diagnostic system according to parameters of tactile perception ofhair, particularly conceived to prescribe a customized cosmetictreatment with specific products for the hair of users.

DESCRIPTION OF STATE OF THE ART

Hair care is a promising market in the cosmetic industry worldwide,wherein innovation and practicality are strategic targets when usersmake their choice in view of the wide range of products that areconstantly launched in this segment.

Over time, the search for specific products for a certain type of hairstopped being considered just vanity and started being interpreted as aneed. Concerns with personal care have increased all over the world,especially considering the fact that physical appearance is essential,either for good professional presentation or for behavior within thepersonal or social level.

With the expansion of consumption of cosmetics targeted for hair care,countless products have been constantly developed and marketed on theshelves of perfumeries, supermarkets, drugstores and convenience stores.Normally, it is possible to find, in such establishments, productsprepared for all hair types, including shampoos, conditioners, combingconditioners, products for chemical processes in general, treatment forhair loss, among others.

The decision to buy a product for a certain type of hair is usuallyassociated with several related factors, mainly with the user's type ofhair and the cosmetic treatment to be applied.

Treatments for daily hair care generally consist of merely washing thehair using shampoo and conditioner; hydrating it; using a blow drier,flat iron or curling iron and/or cauterizing the hair. On the otherhand, there are also treatments made in a longer period of time,including chemical processes such as hair highlights, streaking, dyeing,perm, hair relaxing, straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing.

In view of the diversity of existing products, before buying, many usersrely on the advice given by sellers of establishments which sellcosmetic products, in order to obtain a suggestion on the most suitableproduct for their hair type—either for daily care or for care appliedfor a longer period of time.

Users usually search for alternatives to make their hair look healthy,fighting external natural damaging factors (such as sunbeams andchlorine) and/or other factors caused by the use of chemical productsthat modify the structure of the strands of hair. There are also thoseusers who search for specialized cosmetic products for relatively morecommon treatments, such as treatments for oily hair and scalp, dry endsand dandruff; and users who worry about volume, shine and dryness of thestrands of hair, among other variables.

Some users believe in the direct relationship between price and quality,or brand and quality, and they purchase cosmetic products oftenexpensive, sure that they are making a good deal. In this case, when theresult offered by the purchased product is not the expected one, theuser usually relates the brand of the purchased product to the resultingunsatisfactory performance.

It is very common to see users who search for cosmetic productsrecommended by friends or acquaintances that have been successful intheir choice of the used treatment. However, it is known that thestructure of the strands of hair varies from person to person, just asthe result of the applied treatment can be good or not for a certainuser.

If there is no specialist working as a personal counselor in a perfumeryor establishment that sells cosmetics, the solution generally found bycustomers is to read and analyze the information described on the labelof the product in question and follow their intuition when searching forthe product most suitable for their type of hair.

However, the selection of a product based on an isolated visual analysisof hair can lead users to choose the wrong cosmetic product forpurchase, once external factors, such as environment light, can be anobstacle, influencing users to purchase products which do not meet thestructural needs of their hair.

The hair has four main components: cuticle, cortex, medulla and thecomplex of the cell membrane joining the adjacent cuticle cells andcortical cells. Cuticle, made of an amorphous and protein material, isthe outermost part of the strand, being responsible for protectingcortical cells. Cuticle also regulates the intake and exit of water fromthe fiber, which allows keeping the physical properties of the fiber.Cortex, making up the majority of the hair fiber, is formed bymacrofibrils of keratin aligned in the direction of the strand. Themedulla is located inside the cortex. This component may be present ormissing along the length of the strand. Randomly distributed in thecortex are the melanin granules, whose type, size and quantity determinethe hair color. Changes to the strands of hair may happen in cuticlesand in the cortex as well, and, depending on the applied treatment,damages can be different and occur through different processes.

Therefore, for a more accurate analysis of the hair conditions, thepurchase of a cosmetic product must consider both the intrinsic andextrinsic factors of the hair, increasing the chances of having thestrands respond favorably to the recommended treatment.

As it is technically known about the topic, cosmetic counseling iscurrently a service that has been regularly offered by aestheticclinics, gyms, beauty parlors, Internet, among other places. Thiscounseling service is usually performed based on visual analyses or bymeans of electronic procedures/specialized devices.

After one first analysis made by the expert; a representation of theuser's hair conditions is outlined and, then, counseling on the productis given. Perhaps, the use of this cosmetic counseling service may bebased on the submission of a questionnaire with random questions aboutthe hair conditions and habits of the user. In this regard, patent US2007/0012320 describes a method and system for diagnosing the degree ofseverity of hair loss based on answers to a set of questions presentedto the consumer. Depending on the result from the analysis of theanswers, a second questionnaire is presented in order to recommend amore specific cosmetic product or treatment. Although this documentrefers to a cosmetic counseling service, the method described wasdeveloped only to recommend cosmetic products for the treatment of hairloss.

Patent document US 2009/0076639 also describes a method for cosmeticcounseling and a system for diagnosing a cosmetic product for treatingthe hair conditions. However, this method comprises measuring thecondition of the scalp and hair of users by using a diagnosis device forsuch purpose, with a subsequent analysis of the collected data and thehandling of the customized formulation, in order to provide the userwith a product suitable for the cosmetic treatment. Although the methoddescribed by this document allows for handling a customized productessentially based on the analysis of quantity, density and condition ofthe hair, the diagnosis of the customized product is directly related tothe use of an appropriate device to reproduce the picture of the user'sscalp, therefore, requiring that the user be physically present in theestablishment where such device is available.

The state of the art further discloses patent document US 2004/0202686which describes a method for cosmetic advice and a system for producinga customized product for hair care. Such method comprises theprescription of a customized cosmetic, combining a base product and amixture of biopharmaceuticals with vegetable extracts, and the use ofthe resulting combination to prepare a product for hair treatment.

Patent document US 2004/0236592, in turn, discloses a method to obtaininformation about the hair conditions of a user by means of an interviewor questionnaire, in order to analyze the data (related to the frequencyprofile and applications of chemical processes, hair care habits andparameters of hair oiliness) and to prepare a hair treatment programcomprising (i) the recommendation of a product, (ii) one hair careservice and (iii) one hair care activity.

Patent document US 2006/0265244 describes a method and system forclassifying the hair type and nomenclature. Such method comprises stepswhich include the fulfillment of a questionnaire that classifies thehair according to at least four parameters, the use of a database inorder to determine the hair type among the sixteen types registered, theidentification of at least one product recommendable for treating thehair, as well as one product that should be avoided by the user. Thefour parameters used to classify the hair type of the user include: (1)oiliness or dryness, (2) damages or not, (3) fine or large diameter, and(4) straight or wavy hair. Once the hair type is defined, the sixteenhair types registered in the database serve as basis for comparison torecommend a customized product for the user.

In light of the state of the art documents mentioned above, it ispossible to observe that, although it is evident the ongoing developmentof new techniques of cosmetic counseling for capillary products, themethodology for diagnosing the hair conditions is often related to thecollection of personal information associated with the same repetitiveparameters of classification.

However, as mentioned above in this specification, the structuralmodifications in the hair are associated with intrinsic features of thestrands which, in turn, not always correspond to the visual perceptionsof users when they answer any questionnaire for cosmetic counseling.

The ideal procedure is to lead users, by means of questions preparedaccording to a common and popular vocabulary, to inform the conditionsof tactile perception of the hair which, in turn, reflect the structuralconditions of strands and increase the chances of obtaining a diagnosismore suitable to their need.

PURPOSES OF THE INVENTION

The first goal of this invention is to supply a method for assessing thehair conditions, particularly conceived to prescribe a customizedtreatment and/or product, mainly based on parameters of tactileperception of hair defined by softness, combing and coarseness.

Additionally, the second goal of this invention is to supply a systemfor diagnosing the hair conditions, comprising a matrix forclassification of hair damages and a database, in order to prescribe acustomized cosmetic treatment and/or product.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The first goal of this invention is achieved by means of a method forassessing the hair conditions conceived to prescribe a customizedtreatment and/or product, comprising the following steps:

(A) Obtaining information about the hair of at least one user by meansof at least one questionnaire with at least one question that combinesparameters of tactile perception of hair with at least three attributes,defined by softness, combing and coarseness;

(B) Inserting the information obtained in step A in a matrix forclassification of hair damages, in order to obtain at least oneclassification about the hair condition of the user;

(C) Associating the classification about the hair condition of the userobtained in step B with the characteristics of at least one cosmeticproduct stored in a database that stores registrations of at least onecosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result about thecustomized cosmetic treatment and/or product;

(D) Prescribing to the user at least one customized cosmetic treatmentand/or product according to the result obtained in step C.

The second goal of this invention is achieved by means of a system fordiagnosing the hair conditions which comprises a matrix forclassification of hair damages and a database, wherein the matrix forclassification contains information obtained from questionnairespresented to users and is stored in a database associated withregistrations of one or more cosmetic products, so that the system isconfigured to relate the information from the matrix for classificationof damages to one or more cosmetic products registered in its database,in view of parameters of tactile perception of hair combined with atleast three attributes defined by softness, combing and coarseness, inorder to prescribe to the user one or more customized cosmetictreatments and/or products.

SUMMARIZED DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

This invention will be further described in more details, based on anexample of implementation represented in the drawings. The figures show:

FIG. 1—corresponds to a flow chart with the steps of the method forassessing the hair conditions;

FIG. 2—corresponds to an embodiment of the matrix for classification ofdamages, used in the pilot phase;

FIG. 3—corresponds to an embodiment of the matrix for classification ofdamages, reformulated in the validation phase.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

FIG. 1 illustrates a flow chart representing the method covered by thisinvention, according to a preferred embodiment, comprising the followingsteps:

1. Obtaining personal information about the hair;

1.1 Presenting the questionnaire;

2. Feeding the matrix for classification;

3. Processing information in the matrix for classification;

3.1 Association with a product registered in the database;

4. Prescribing a cosmetic treatment and/or product.

Such method for assessing the hair conditions starts with step1—collection of personal information about the hair, consolidated bymeans of step 1.1—presentation of the questionnaire.

This questionnaire contemplates questions preferably related to theshape, type, profile of day care and the application of chemicalprocesses to the strands, attributes of tactile perception and any otherinformation related to the hair conditions.

In a preferred embodiment, the options on the hair shape are describedin the questionnaire in the form of alternatives, allowing the user tochoose from, but not exclusively, straight (completely straight), frizzy(wavy, curly) or kinky (afro, coiled). Other alternatives about hairshape can be added to the questionnaire, so that this requirement servesas a reference to indicate the shapes of the user's hair.

More particularly, the hair shape is defined by a board withphotographic scale, which is based on a system largely known in the art,attached to the questionnaire, which identifies the different hairshapes according to their curvature and serves to help the understandingof users when they must choose their hair shape.

Optionally, questions about the user's hair type are described in thequestionnaire in the form of alternatives, allowing users to chosepreferentially from oily, normal, combination (dry ends and oily scalp)or dry.

The questionnaire further contemplates questions about the profile ofchemical processes applied to the user's hair which, in turn, aredescribed in the form of alternatives so that the users indicate thechemical processes that have already been applied to the structure oftheir hair strands. Preferentially, the questionnaire proposed by thisinvention considers as options to be indicated the chemical processeswith hair highlights, streaking, dyeing, perm, hair relaxing,straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing, among others.

Moreover, daily care is also an important tool for the hair, once itrepresents the products that more often get in touch with the structureof the strands.

It is worth realizing that, in general, the profile of daily care andapplications of chemical processes, combined to the frequency of thesetreatments, can generate more or less impact on the structure of hairstrands resulting in a certain mechanism of damage to hair, once theproperties of the strands tend to be naturally unprotected, thusfacilitating the loss of nutrients and keratin.

Table 1 shows the type of damage caused both by daily care and by theapplication of chemical processes:

TABLE 1 Type of damage caused by different treatments. Table 1 shows thetype of damage caused both by daily care and by the application ofchemical processes: Daily care: washing, blow drying, comb- ing,Brazilian hair External agents: Perm, chemical relaxing, Bleaching,bleaching + Permanent Hair Treatment straightening sun, chlorineJapanese hair straightening dyeing (blond) Dyes Process MechanicalPower, Oxidation and Reduction: chemical Oxidation: H2O2 with chemicalOxidation temperature, photo-oxidation process at high accelerator,reaction at pH 9-11 surfactants pH 9-11 K-S-S-K + Fission S-S: RS_SR ->R-SH -> K-S-S-R + RSO-SR -> RSO2-SR -> K-SH -> K-S-S-R + [RSO2-SOR ] ->RSO2-SO2R -> R-SH -> R-S-S-R + 2R-SO3H K-SH Damages They are preferablyThey are preferably Cuticle and e cortical dam- Degradation melanin,damages Similar to the superficial and with superficial with more ages.Breaks of disulfide cortex and cuticles: disulfide bleaching process,more impact farther impact farther from the bonds and decrease in thebonds are broken, hydrophilicity: however softer. from the roots. roots.Proteins and properties of tension- high weakness (300%) decreaseDamages with slower melanin protect against deformation in theproperties of tension- progression UV radiation deformation when humid

Therefore, the questionnaire preferably has a question about how oftenthe chemical processes are applied to the hair, and the alternatives arechosen from (i) at least once a month, (ii) every 2-4 months, (iii)every 4-6 months, or more than 6 months. The options are not limited bythe alternatives mentioned, which only serve as referential ranges toexemplify a preferred embodiment of this invention.

Also in initial steps 1 and 1.1 for obtaining personal information aboutthe users' hair illustrated in FIG. 1, at least one question abouttactile perception is included in the questionnaire presented in themethod of this invention, this parameter being the most relevant andinnovative in comparison to the prior arts that propose the presentationof a questionnaire.

To effectively reflect the information about the tactile perception ofthe user's hair, said parameter is combined with at least threeattributes defined by softness (high, normal or low), combing (easy,moderate or hard) and coarseness (high or low).

Therefore, the questionnaire presented in the method of this inventionshould contain at least one question about the tactile perception ofhair, with an, essay answer or a multiple-choice answer by the user,regardless of the limited number of questions about the hair conditionsin the questionnaire.

Preferably, the questionnaire is available to users in printed format,via website in the Internet, sent by e-mail or mail in response to aprivate appointment, or even delivered by a product consultant. Theanswers to the questionnaire, with personal information about the hairconditions, are preferably sent by the user in printed format, viawebsite in the Internet, by e-mail, SMS, mail or delivered to a productconsultant.

After the initial steps 1 and 1.1, the present method for assessing hairconditions has a second step 2 about feeding the matrix forclassification of damages with the users' personal information that wasobtained from the presented questionnaire.

The matrix for classification conceived for this invention was developedusing factors intrinsic and extrinsic to the structure of the hairstrands. Its system was configured to process the personal informationabout the users' hair, associating it with the characteristics of atleast one cosmetic treatment and/or product registered in the databasein which it is stored, according to steps 3 and 3.1 illustrated inFIG. 1. The result obtained in steps 3 and 3.1 also allows prescribingat least one product kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.

To validate the system for diagnosing the level of damages caused to theuser's hair and to indentify at least one capillary cosmetic, the matrixfor classification was built with parameters of shape (or curvature),type, profile of daily care and chemical processes applied to the hair,as well as tactile perception.

The parameter of hair shape was based on the photographic scale systemwidely known in the art which, in turn, identifies eight different typesof hair curvature, numbered from I to VIII. For the nomenclature, typesI and II were considered straight, III and IV were considered frizzy,and V or higher were considered kinky.

In order to have the user's hair condition classified by theclassification matrix, both the profile of daily care and the profile ofchemical processes applied to the hair were associated with therespective mechanism of damage caused to the hair, wherein four groupswere found.

Group one comprises only daily care, which includes washing withshampoo, use of conditioner, blow drier, hydration and flat iron, beingdirectly related to mechanical, thermal and surfactant damages.

Group two comprises daily care (described in group one), in addition todyeing, highlights or streaking (except bleaching or blond dyeing in thewhole hair), being characterized by the presence of oxidative damages.

Group three comprises daily care (described in group one), in additionto perm, relaxing or straightening, being characterized by the presenceof reductive damages.

Group four comprises daily care (described in group one), in addition tobleaching, blond dyeing or the combination of treatments from groups twoand three.

Yet the parameter of tactile perception was, at a first moment,structured in the classification matrix according to four attributes:softness, combing, coarseness and extension. Each attribute wassubdivided into modest levels, as shown on Table 2.

TABLE 2 Attributes of tactile perception subdivided into modest levelsof damage.

However, during the performance of tests on the assertiveness of theclassification matrix, it was verified that the attribute extension didnot satisfactorily contribute to the classification of damages; so itwas, afterwards, excluded from the list of attributes of tactileperception.

To attest the assertiveness of the classification matrix, tests werecarried out in two phases, with the participation of volunteers andhairdressers. In phase I (pilot step), a total of 93 volunteersparticipated, and in phase II (validation step), the total of volunteerswas 188.

In the pilot and validation step, volunteers and hairdressers answeredto similar questions, and the volunteers were invited to answer to anadditional question about the frequency of the profile of daily care andapplication of chemical processes to the hair.

The questionnaire used in the tests contemplated questions about shape(board with photographic scale attached), the profile of daily care andapplication of chemical processes to the hair, and tactile perception ofthe hair. Besides these parameters, one question about the hair type wasincluded in the questionnaire, although the result of said parameter didimpact the damages classification by the matrix.

The answers given by the volunteers were compared to the answers givenby the hairdressers who, in turn, were trained with 90 hair streaksbuilt (according to Table 3) on each level of damages of the attributesrelating to tactile perception (softness, combing, coarseness andextension) for each hair shape (straight, frizzy and kinky).

TABLE 3 Procedure for washing the streaks to build the scale of tactileperception. Softness S1 Shampoo + Conditioner for dry hair + silicone S2Shampoo + anti-residues S3 Shampoo + anti-residues + application offriction with sponge Combing Comb1 Shampoo + Conditioner for dry hair +silicone Comb2 Shampoo + anti-residues Comb3 Shampoo + anti-residues +application of friction with sponge Coarseness C1 Shampoo + Conditionerfor dry hair + silicone C2 Shampoo + anti-residues + application offriction with sponge Extension Ext1 Shampoo + Conditioner for dry hair +silicone Ext2 Bleaching + Recoloring + Anti-residue shampoo

In the pilot stage, the answers from the 93 volunteers were assessed byfour hairdressers, and it was used the multivariate technique ofclassification tree to list the qualitative answers given by thehairdressers and volunteers.

The dependent variable in the model was the crossing of damages and hairshape for the hairdressers' assessment. The explanatory (qualitative)variables considered were: shape, type, profile of daily care andapplication of chemical processes to the hair, as well as attributes oftactile perception (softness, combing, coarseness and extension).

In this pilot stage, there was no distinction among the different hairshapes (straight, frizzy and kinky) in the classification matrix.Besides, the profile of daily care and application of chemical processesto the hair was considered only as criterion to break tie, in the caseof overlapping classifications (such as in the embodiment illustrated inFIG. 2, where overlapping of Not Damaged [ND] and Light Damages [LD]occurred in line 4 of the matrix).

It was performed one classification per hairdresser and anotherclassification considering all the hairdressers together. Theclassification pattern with all hairdressers showed 57.3% of rightguesses. The percentage of right guesses of the pattern for hairdressers1, 2, 3 and 4 corresponded to 66.7%, 52.7%, 63.4% and 60.2%,respectively. For the final classification pattern, the answers of allhairdressers were used.

Table 4 compares the results from the hairdressers' classifications tothe results estimated with the classification tree, originated from theanswers in the volunteers' questionnaires.

TABLE 4 Matrix with result from classification-classified values vs.estimated values

All the positions on the table in white indicate that there was noobservation for the crossing. The highest percentages of correctclassifications were observed for kinky hair with intense damages,frizzy hair with intense damages and for frizzy hair not damaged. Forlight damages, there was no agreement between the variable answer andthe pattern prediction; in this case, most answers with light damageswere classified as intense damage by the pattern. The pattern did notclassify any hair with moderate damage and kinky shape, moderate damageand straight shape, and not damaged and kinky shape. The lower frequencyobserved for light damages and moderate damages contributes to the lowpercentages of correct guesses observed in these cases.

The most important variables in hair classification were the hair shape,the profile of daily care and the application of chemical processes tothe hair, as well as the attribute of tactile perception of combing. Thehair type and the attribute of tactile perception of extension were lessimportant in the classification, whereas the attributes of tactileperception of coarseness and softness did not appear in theclassification tree for this pilot step.

Additionally, it was noted little agreement between the volunteers andhairdressers as to the attributes of tactile perception of softness,combing, coarseness and extension, as it can be observed on Tables 5 to8.

TABLE 5 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between the volunteers(column) and the hairdressers (lines) for the attribute softness.

TABLE 6 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between the volunteers(column) and the hairdressers (lines) for the attribute coarseness.

TABLE 7 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between the volunteers(column) and the hairdressers (lines) for the attribute extension.

TABLE 8 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between the volunteers(column) and the hairdressers (lines) for the attribute combing.

In spite of the little agreement in all levels for the attributes oftactile perception of softness, combing and coarseness, the fluctuationin the answers (considered normal) occurred among adjacent levels anddid not strongly impact the final classification.

On the other hand, the attribute of tactile perception of extension wasconsidered the one with stronger impact on the final classificationaccording to the matrix proposed in this phase. After all, if onevolunteer was classified by the hairdresser as having undamaged hair,and both disagreed only with the answer regarding extension, thevolunteer could rate herself as having intensely damaged hair. It wasalso concluded that even the classification made by the hairdresserscould suffer strong impact inherent to the construction of thisclassification matrix.

Furthermore, it was noted that the volunteers had plenty of difficultyin understanding the attribute of tactile perception of extension. As aresult, the answers given by the volunteers were random in relation tothe answers given by the hairdressers (which can be observed on Table 8,in which the percentage of right guesses was 50%).

The combination of these two factors related to the attribute of tactileperception of extension was decisive for reviewing the classificationmatrix proposed in the pilot stage. It was verified that excluding theattribute extension would reduce the variation in the classificationpossibilities, thus increasing assertiveness in classification.Moreover, it was also verified the need of carrying out research tobetter understand the vocabulary used by the volunteers to identify thehair damages, in order to adjust the words used in the questionnaire.

Phase II (validation step) of tests on assertiveness of the matrix fordamage classification started, then, with the performance of qualitativeresearch with a a semi-structured guideline methodology, conductinggroup discussions, in a mirror room.

The research used 32 women aged between 25 and 35 years, with medium tolong hair, belonging to classes A, B and C (meaning rich, middle-classand poor). All volunteers made use of shampoo and conditioner at leasttwice a week, out of whom 50% had virgin hair (no dyeing or applicationof chemical processes for the past twelve months) and 50% had hair withsome chemical process applied within the last three months.

The volunteers were divided into four groups classified as AB1, B2C,Straight/Wavy and Kinky/Frizzy. Additionally, to be classified as avolunteer of group Kinky/Frizzy, the volunteer had to apply one or morefinishers (end mender, ointment, de-frizzing products, leave-in creams,thermal active repair cream, gel, mousse, hairspray, among others) inthe hair at least once every fifteen days.

Initially, the volunteers were invited to draw, over the representationof a face, the condition of their hair in a good day and in a bad day,describing such conditions in their own words. After analyzing theresults, it was noted that the ideal hair in a good day, both for thevolunteers of group Straight/Wavy and for those of group Kinky/Frizzy,would be “tamed hair.”

Next, it was assessed what the volunteers believed to be related to thehair damages, as well as the vocabulary used to identify them. It wasverified that the word “dry” appeared as effect from several sources ofcauses.

Finally, the attributes of tactile perception proposed in phase I wereassessed (softness, combing coarseness and extension), as well as theadequacy of their levels of damages. It was verified that the attributesof softness, combing and coarseness were easily understood and hadadequate levels, apart from being also confirmed that the first twoattributes were already part of the daily language used by thevolunteers. However, the concept of extension was considered hard tounderstand once, apart from getting mixed up with extension likeartificial hair integration, it had its concept associated withelasticity.

With the final result from the qualitative research, it was possible toobserve that the attribute extension was misunderstood by thevolunteers, thus confirming what has already been realized during theimplementation of the pilot step (phase I). Therefore, it was decided toexclude this attribute of tactile perception from the classificationmatrix.

Also based on the result from the qualitative research, thequestionnaire was adapted according to the vocabulary identified by thevolunteers who answered the qualitative research.

In view of this, the classification matrix was reformulated (as shown bythe embodiment in FIG. 3) for the implementation of the validation step,in which it was selected 95 volunteers who, together with those whoparticipated in the pilot step, added up to 564 answers assessed bythree hairdressers.

The results of Table 9 show that, in the validation step, thehairdressers and volunteers agreed considerably with the hair shape.Such agreement was perhaps the effect from using the photographic scaleto guide the classification.

TABLE 9 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers(column) and hairdressers (lines) regarding shape.

The same may have happened for the group of treatments (profile of dailycare and application of chemical processes) practiced by the volunteers,as presented on Table 10.

TABLE 10 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers(column) and hairdressers (lines) regarding treatment.

As regards the attributes of tactile perception, it was realized littlevariation among the answers of hairdressers and volunteers, when seenfrom a general overview. However, when individually comparing theanswers given by the volunteers, there was more significant agreementbetween volunteers and hairdressers in several aspects, according toresults shown on Tables 11, 12 and 13.

TABLE 11 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers(column) and hairdressers (lines) regarding softness.

TABLE 12 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers(column) and hairdressers (lines) regarding sensation (coarseness).

TABLE 13 Percentage of agreement and disagreement between volunteers(column) and hairdressers (lines) regarding combing.

The classification pattern with all hairdressers showed 58.7% of correctguesses and the percentage of correct guesses for hairdressers 1, 2 and3 was 59.6%, 59.6%, 62.2% respectively. Although the answers of allhairdressers have been used in the final pattern, it is important toclarify that the results from a hairdresser's assessment of the pilotstage were not considered once she has not performed assessment of thesample of this validation step.

Table 14 compares the results from the hairdressers' classifications tothe results estimated with the classification tree arising from thevolunteers' answers. All the gaps indicate that there was no observationfor crossing.

TABLE 14 Classification matrix-Classified values vs estimated values inthe final pattern

The highest percentages of correct classifications were observed forkinky hair with intense damages (90.8%) and with slight damages (78.8%),straight and undamaged hair (63.2%).

The crossing between kinky hair and undamaged hair was a very rare eventin the data set. Out of all 564 assessments performed, only two wereclassified in this crossing (0.35%), and, therefore, the fact that thefinal percentage was zero did not raise concerns regarding the finalclassification obtained.

Another result that had percentage equivalent to zero was the crossingfor frizzy hair and with slight damages. The confusion occurred mainlydue to the classification in frizzy hair; however, with moderate damages(40.0%).

Moreover, two other percentages had indexes lower than 50%, which wasthe case of moderate damages for kinky (32.0%) and straight (21.7%)hair. For kinky hair, the confusion occurred in relation to damage, onceanother 32% were classified as intense and not moderate damages. Forstraight hair, the confusion also occurred in relation to damage, once39.3% were classified as slight and not moderate damages.

The final percentage of correct classification was equivalent to 58.7%,and, although it has been similar to the pilot stage (phase I), evidentimprovement was observed in the matrix regarding the marginalclassifications (lines).

The most important variables in the hair classification were the hairshape and the treatment (profile of daily care and application ofchemical processes to the hair). The attribute of softness was importantin the classification of the groups mainly for straight hair. Theattributes of coarseness and combing helped at the classification forkinky hair. The attributes of type and combing helped with frizzy hair.

A classification according to damages was made, without separating thevolunteers' hair according to type, in order to know what results wouldbe observed in the classification matrix.

As it can be observed on Table 15, the highest percentage of correctclassification was for hair with intense damages (91.7%), that is, therewere practically no problems in identifying hair with intense damagesaccording to the questionnaire prepared.

TABLE 15 Matrix of results from damage classification: classified valuesvs. estimated values-pattern without separating hair according to type.

Hair with slight damages showed 58.3% of correct classifications. Inthis case, the biggest problem could be observed for 22.0% of incorrectclassifications in moderate damages, which was not significantlyreflected due to the closeness in the classifications between slight andmoderate damages.

Hair with moderate damages showed 56.1% of correct classifications. Inthis case the biggest problem could be observed for 25.5% of incorrectclassifications for slight damages.

Undamaged hair showed 40% of correct classifications. Incorrectclassifications were observed in slight (22.2%) and moderate (28.9%)damages. The biggest problem was for the classification in moderatedamages, once it got very distant from the undamaged hair.

Considering the results from both steps performed in phases I and II ofthe assertiveness tests, the classification matrix was considered validfor the classification of hair for damages, according to the parametersof hair shape, profile of daily care and application of chemicalprocesses, as well as the attributes of tactile perception of softness,combing and coarseness.

It is important to highlight that the matrix for classification of hairdamages, developed to be used as a diagnostic tool, is also capable ofseparating different agents that cause damages and of eliminatingpossible market beliefs.

In a preferred embodiment, the insertion of the questionnaire answers inthe classification matrix leads to a position which establishes the hairdamage and allows the performance of final step 4 of this method, whichcomprises the prescription of cosmetic treatment and/or product, or alsoa product kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.

The products recommended by the classification matrix consider thevariations of each dimension present in the database.

The method under this invention is different from those others describedin the state of the art documents, once it classifies the damagesaccording to the attributes of tactile perception (softness, combing andcoarseness), thus revealing a new way of assessing the hair conditionsand meeting, more assertively, the users' needs.

Furthermore, the tests performed for the conception of this inventionattest the importance of adjusting the vocabulary of the questionnairespresented in cosmetic counseling methods with the language used byusers, in order to obtain correct personal information and ensure theprescription of a more assertive product and/or treatment.

One of the advantages of this invention is that the user is the agentwho guides the method in question, and, based on her own analysis of theattributes of tactile perception (which can be made at the comfort ofher home), a position will be outlined in the matrix for damageclassification, so that a cosmetic treatment and/or product can berecommended.

The matrix for damage classification used as diagnostic tool in thepresent invention was developed regardless of any product line; being,therefore, suitable for the prescription of any capillary cosmetic inthe database in which it is stored.

Preferably, the compositions of the cosmetic products and/or treatmentscontained in the product database are essentially comprised by an activeingredient and a physiologically appropriate vehicle. The usual cosmeticadjuvant and active ingredients present in the compositions in questioncan be of animal, vegetal, mineral or synthetic origin.

As to the physiologically acceptable vehicle, it consists of a usualcosmetic base according to the application intended for the compositionto be prepared. This vehicle is comprised by usual adjuvant andphysiologically inert compounds.

One of the manners to implement the method covered by this invention canbe through a computerized system accessible, for instance, by means of awebsite on the Internet, or even by means of a computer in which thesystem for diagnosing the hair conditions of the present invention runs.Such system comprises at least one matrix for classification of hairdamages and a database; the matrix for classification of damagescomprises information obtained from questionnaires presented to usersand is stored in a database which, in turn, comprises registrations ofat least one cosmetic product; the system is configured to relate theinformation from the classification matrix to at least one cosmeticproduct registered in the database, based on parameters of tactileperception of hair combined with at least three attributes defined bysoftness, combing and coarseness, in order to recommend to the user atleast one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product, or also aproduct kit and/or cosmetic treatment related to the kit.

After describing an example of a preferred embodiment, it shall beunderstood that the scope of the present invention encompasses otherpossible variations, being limited only by the contents of the attachedclaims, where the possible equivalents are included.

1. Method for assessing the hair conditions, particularly conceived toprescribe at least one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product,characterized in that it comprises the following steps: (A) Obtaininginformation about the hair of at least one user by means of at least onequestionnaire with at least one question that combines parameters oftactile perception of hair with at least three attributes, defined bysoftness, combing and coarseness; (B) Inserting the information obtainedin step A in a matrix for classification of hair damages, in order toobtain at least one classification about the hair condition of the user;(C) Associating the classification about the user's hair conditionobtained in step B with the characteristics of at least one cosmeticproduct stored in a database that stores registrations of at least onecosmetic product, in order to obtain at least one result about thecustomized cosmetic treatment and/or product; (D) Prescribing to theuser at least one customized cosmetic treatment and/or product accordingto the result obtained in step C.
 2. Method according to claim 1,characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of softnessdefined by Step A is subdivided into modest levels of damages, chosenfrom at least high, normal or low.
 3. Method according to claim 1,characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of combingdefined by Step A is subdivided into modest levels of damages, chosenfrom at least easy, moderate or hard.
 4. Method according to claim 1,characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of coarsenessdefined by Step A is subdivided into modest levels of damages, chosenfrom at least low or high.
 5. Method according to claim 1, characterizedin that the information about the user's hair defined by Step A isassociated with at least one hair shape, chosen from at least straight,frizzy or kinky.
 6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in thatthe information about the hair shape is associated with a board withphotographic scale.
 7. Method according to claim 1, characterized inthat the information about the user's hair defined in Step A isassociated with at least one hair type, chosen from at least oily,normal, combination or dry.
 8. Method according to claim 1,characterized in that the information about the user's hair defined inStep A is associated with the profile of chemical process applied to thehair, chosen from at least highlights, streaking, dyeing, perm,relaxing, straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing.
 9. Methodaccording to claim 1, characterized in that the information about theuser's hair defined in Step A is associated with the daily care relatedto the use of at least shampoo, conditioner, hydration, blow drier, flatiron, hair extension and/or cauterizing.
 10. Method according to claim1, characterized in that the questionnaire defined in Step A is offeredin printed format, via website on the Internet, sent by e-mail or mailin response to a private appointment, or even delivered to the user by aproduct consultant.
 11. Method according to claim 1, characterized inthat the answers to the questionnaire defined in Step A are sent by theuser in printed format, via website on the Internet, by e-mail, SMS,mail or even delivered by the user to a product consultant.
 12. Methodaccording to claim 1, characterized in that the result obtained in StepC allows the prescription of at least one product kit and/or cosmetictreatment related to the kit.
 13. Method according to claim 1,characterized in that the compositions of the cosmetic products storedin the database defined in Step C comprise at least one activeingredient and at least one physiologically appropriate vehicle. 14.System for diagnosing the hair conditions characterized in that itcomprises at least one matrix for classification of hair damages and adatabase, the matrix for classification of damages contains informationobtained from questionnaires presented to users and is stored in adatabase, the database comprises registrations of at least one cosmeticproduct, the system is configured to relate the information from theclassification matrix to at least one cosmetic product registered in thedatabase, based on parameters of tactile perception of hair combinedwith at least three attributes defined by softness, combing andcoarseness, in order to recommend to the user at least one customizedcosmetic treatment and/or product.
 15. Diagnostic system according toclaim 12, characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception ofsoftness is subdivided into modest levels of damages, chosen from atleast high, normal or low.
 16. Diagnostic system according to claim 12,characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of combing issubdivided into modest levels of damages, chosen from at least easy,moderate and hard.
 17. Diagnostic system according to claim 12,characterized in that the attribute of tactile perception of coarsenessis subdivided into modest levels of damages, chosen from at least low orhigh.
 18. Diagnostic system according to claim 12, characterized in thatthe information obtained from the questionnaires is associated with atleast one hair shape, chosen from at least straight, frizzy or kinky.19. Diagnostic system according to claim 18, characterized in that theinformation about the hair shape is associated with a board withphotographic scale.
 20. Diagnostic system according to claim 12,characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnairesis associated with at least one hair type, chose from at least, oily,normal, combination or dry.
 21. Diagnostic system according to claim 12,characterized in that the information obtained from the questionnairesis associated with the profile of chemical process applied to the hair,chosen from at least from highlights, streaking, dyeing, perm, relaxing,straightening, bleaching and/or blond dyeing.
 22. Diagnostic systemaccording to claim 12, characterized in that the information obtainedfrom the questionnaires is associated with the daily care related to theuse of at least shampoo, conditioner, hydration, blow drier, flat iron,hair extension and/or cauterizing.
 23. Diagnostic system according toclaim 12, characterized in that the questionnaires are available inprinted format, via website on the Internet, sent by e-mail or mail inresponse to a private appointment, or even delivered by a productconsultant.
 24. Diagnostic system according to claim 12, characterizedin that the answers to the questionnaires are sent by users in printedformat, via website on the Internet, by e-mail, SMS, mail or deliveredto a product consultant.
 25. Diagnostic system according to claim 12,characterized in that the system relates the information from theclassification matrix to at least one product kit and/or cosmetictreatment related to the kit.
 26. Diagnostic system according to claim12, characterized in that the compositions of the cosmetic productsstored in the database comprise at least one active ingredient and atleast one physiologically appropriate vehicle.